Do Attwood pumps have built in check valves?

No
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Will Attwood aerator pump draw water up the inlet in a vertical position (like a straw)?

No, water must be at the impeller for the pump to move water.
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Are Attwood bilge and aerator pumps ignition protected?

Yes.
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My pump won’t pump water very high and not much comes out, what could be wrong?

The pump could be wired backwards, impeller should turn counter clockwise.
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Can I use an AC/DC converter to run Attwood DC pumps?

It’s not recommended and will void your warranty.
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Barigo

How do I readjust my hygrometer ?

If a hygrometer is exposed to very dry air over a longer period of time and if you would like to maintain a correct reading, we recommend to readjust the instrument every 3-4 months.

Put a damp cloth on the back of the hygrometer for about an hour to allow humidity to get into the instrument and circulate within the case of the hygrometer. After that period of time the scale should read approximately 95 %. If it reads a lower number or is off scale completely, merely turn screw on back until the pointer is on 95. The humidity indicator will then start to operate again. To maintain accuracy of the instrument, it is advisable to repeat this procedure every 3-4 months.
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How do I best take care of my brass ship´s barometer or clock?

These instruments are of solid brass, polished and laquered. This treatment is sufficient for normal use onboard a ship within the cabin or at home.

On contact with salt water or with air containing salt it is strictly recommended to immediately clean the instrument with the use of a damp cloth to remove the salt. This is to prevent the salt to destroy the protecting laquering and to start attacking The surface of the brass itself. This procedure will guarantee a long lasting superb finish of your instrument.
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How may I adjust my barometer to my local altitude ?

If the barometer is meant to show the correct relative air pressure for each and every location it has to be adjusted once to adapt to local altitude. On the back of each instrument (or at the bottom of some table instruments) you will find an opening giving access to the adjusting screw which moves the indicating hand. On some models you will have to remove the fixing back plate with its centre screw first to have access to the adjusting screw. To receive the current relative air pressure value for your location please check with your local newspaper, your local radio station or airport at that day. Turn the adjusting screw to set the hand to the correct reading. After having done so once the barometer will reliably react to any changes and will help you to obtain a good weather forecast for your home.
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Cobra

How do I pair a mobile phone to the MR HH475?

1. Press and release the blue button to enter Bluetooth mode.
2. It should say “blue” on the display.
3. Press and hold the blue button until the radio beeps 4 times, then RELEASE the button.
4. The keypad should be flashing and the display should flash “pair” “pin“ “0000”. This indicates that the radio is in pairing mode and that the pin code is 0000.
5. Go through the menus on the cell phone to setup a Bluetooth device.

If the radio has been paired to a mobile phone, the display will show a letter ‘P’ when you are in Bluetooth mode. (it will show the word “blue” and then the letter ‘p’)
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My radio has short range

Range will vary, depending on a number of factors:

* The condition of the batteries (on handheld radios).
* Obstructions between the radios.
* The transmit power of each radio.
* The antenna used (for models that can use an external antenna).

The range that you actually get will vary, depending on the combination and severity of the above factors.

For maximum range:
* If your radio can use an external antenna, then install a good quality marine antenna as high as possible. This will greatly enhance your range.
* Make sure the radio is set to high power (most models can switch between high and low transmit power).
* On handheld radios, use new batteries. For absolute maximum range, use alkaline batteries.
* Avoid obstructions between radios. For example:
- Trees or buildings between the radios will reduce the range (yes, this can happen on the water!).
- Avoid using handheld radios indoors. For maximum range, use your handheld radio outside and stand on the highest portion of your deck.

* For maximum range on the HH100 and HH200, try using the Monitor button (located below the transmit button). These models have an automatic squelch setting. If a weak signal is below the squelch level, you will not hear it. The Monitor button allows you to manually open the squelch in order to receive weak signals. To use the Monitor button:
1. Hold the Monitor button for at least 5 seconds, you should hear a beep. Release the button. The squelch will now remain open during receive. Reception will be scratchy, but you should be able to hear them.
2. To turn it off, just press and release the Monitor button.

* For maximum range on other models, turn the squelch control all the way down until you hear background static.
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Where can I find a Manual/Instructions for my Cobra Product?

You can find these on the resources section of our website, under the Cobra title.
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Glomex

Please can you advise what the power supply is for on the RA201 - Does it relate to the AM/FM function only?

Power supply in RA201 is needed for AM/FM and AIS signals amplification and for the relay that switches between signals.
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Where can I find a Manual/Instructions for my Glomex Product?

You can find these under the Glomex title on our resources section.
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V9125, the customer has to turn the amplifier to ¾ before the RED light comes on then he can only get a picture when it’s on full – is this normal or is this a fault?

maybe the customer's installation is different than other people:

for example longer cables, splitter or a lower antenna installation.

In any case, if the customer can see the TV it should not be a problem.

At last the LED is lighted on fully when the amplifier is nearly at the max gain's level.
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Which Coaxial Cable do I use for my antenna, and why choose Glomex?

Coaxial cables transmit signals to and from the antenna. Poor quality cables will dramatically reduce the efficiency of both antenna and transceivers. All coaxial cables can loose efficiency over time due to humidity. Glomex cables are specifically designed and manufactured for use in the marine environment. All Glomex cables have been developed in cooperation with coaxial cables specialists to ensure minimal signal distortion or loss and long term reliability.

RA152 - for VHF antennas
RA118 - for VHF antennas
RA117 - for VHF antennas
V9135 - for TV antennas
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Is there an antenna that allows me to call while cruising?

The RA160 and RA161 antennas give you this chance thanks to the solid brass internal elements and to the cellular frequencies they operate: from 800 and 980 MHz
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Do Glomex have an antenna that allows two radio's to connect to one antenna?

Yes, The V9149 2 way radio cable allows to connect two radio to the same antenna, so you can listen to your favourite radio station away from the coast!
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Which is the best VHF antenna for a Powerboat?

Our VHF antenna's all have different features, one of (at least) which will adhere to your specifications. It all depends what your looking for. Here are breif explications of the variety we manufacture:

Best for overall performance: RA1225
The RA1225 is a collinear VHF antenna, high 2.40 mt (8’), built with brass and copper elements, a collinear phased 5/8 wave element provides long range communication and the best radio performance, is designed to guarantee the best performance in terms of quality, design and functionality: is made following the high Glomex standard. This antenna makes the difference not just because of the internal elements is made with, but even because of the finishes, having a tube in glass-reinforced plastic and a double thickness (1,2mm-0,05) regarding the traditional antennas. It is polished with a polyurethane paint U.V resistant also. The RA1225 is a real performing antenna with 6 dB gain, having a vertical polarization that minimizes the reflections effects on the flat surface. Equipped with an electro polished stainless steel ferrule and low loss twin screen and resistant covering
UV coaxial cable. All these features are the right ingredients to guarantee this antenna with the lifetime warranty, like the other Glomex products but above all to rely on the RA1225 every time you need it, today, tomorrow or in ten years.

Most Economic: RA 1206
Glomex engineered an economical and lightweight antenna who whom
wants to keep good communication quality but the range is not the main
factor. High 2.40 mt (8’), with extra high gloss polyurethane and UV resistant
finish have solid brass antenna elements in its internal. The tube
has a double thickness respect the standard antennas. Available with
the chrome brass ferrule or the nylon one, is supplied with 4.5 mt of low
loss twin screen coax cable and the PL259 twist on connector RA132.

Best for Limited Space and Quality Performance: RA112
RA112 VHF antenna is the perfect choice for whom wants excellent
results to combine with compact dimension, it’s high just 1.50 mt.
Glomex gives you the chance to have great quality brass elements, high
gloss polyurethane finish UV resistant and a choice between the chrome
brass ferrule and the nylon one. Supplied with 4.5 mt low loss twin
screen coax cable and the PL259 twist on connector RA132.

Best for Long Range and High Performance: RA113
The RA113 is a high performance VHF antenna, high 2.70 mt (9’). It’s a 6 dB collinear phased 5/8 wave antenna with solid brass elements that provide a long range communication and extra high gloss polyurethane finish UV resistant for a long life service. Supplied with 6 mt (20’) of twin screen low loss cable RG58 and a solderless
male gold plated connector PL259 (RA132SOLDERLESS).

Best for Professional Communication: RA 500
The RA500 represents a standard of outstanding in the professional communication. It’s a
collinear phased 2 wave antenna with 9 dB gain. Glomex gives you the best materials brass and copper elements as internal elements and high – finishes in this two-pieces antenna, highs 6.40 mt (21’ 4”) and extra high gloss polyurethane finish UV resistant. The RA500 includes 6 mt (20’) of twin screen low loss cable RG58 and a solderless male gold plated connector PL259. For a proper installation is necessary the RA119 support.

Best for Reliable Long Range Communication: RA 800
Phased 2-wave elements in a collinear array with suppressor of cable radiation at the element’s base. This 9 dB, two-piece antenna is the best choice when reliable long range communications are requested. The heavy duty construction and polyurethane finish ensure long life in the marine environment.

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What warranty do I get with a Glomex Product?

LIFETIME WARRANTY

Glomex warrants its products on the VHF - TV - CB - AM/FM - ORBCOMM - AIS - SSB - MOBILE PHONE and Mounts to be free of defects in materials and workmanship for as long the product remains the property of the original purchaser.

Glomex’s obligation under this warranty is limited to repair or replace defective products.
No material will be repair or replace defective products.
No material will be repaired or replaced without written authorization from Glomex or its
assigned representatives.

Repair or replacement will be made only after an examination indicates defective material
or workmanship at time of manufacture.
Glomex is in no event liable for consequential damages, installation costs or costs of any
nature incurred as a result of the use of the products manufactured by Glomex, whether
used in accordance with instruction or not. All shipping costs on returned materials are
responsibility of the purchaser. Glomex is not liable for repair or replacement of any products
damaged by lighting or any other natural phenomenon or incorrect installation including
reverse polarity connections.

This warranty is in lieu of all others either expressed or implied.

Proof of purchase is required.
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I require a Satellite TV antenna, but have restricted space, which is the best antenna for me?

URANIA V9300

The NEW! Urania is the ideal choice for you. Compact, at only 31 cm (12”) diameter and a weight of 3.5 Kg, along with consumption on average of less than 1 Amp/h at 12 V dc. The Urania, however still features all the specification of the other Glomex SAT TV antennas.
The new electronics gyroscopes allow a better stabilization of the antenna with more precision and speed as the new electric motors have better silent tracking. Urania can operate when the boat is at dock or in navigation or at the anchor and its coaxial rotating joint doesn’t need to wrap the coaxial cable, available at 12 V dc only with a compact control unit preloaded with 3 satellite.

An Urania exclusive is the possibility to update the software when you want, or when necessary, for free and from everybody through the SD card (digital camera memory) on the control unit. The software is available for free on the Glomex web site.

So a small antenna but great in its technology and performance!
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I mostly sail around the mediterranean, so I need a satellite antenna that will perform in this area, which satellite is best?

Mars 1 is your solution, with its 60 cm diameter dish it combines high performance with proper
Glomex’s satellite TV antenna features; like easy installation, reliability of materials, operation effectiveness’, the coaxial rotating joint (CRJ) that allows the antenna turns infinitely on itself on the azimuth axis since no coaxial cable wrapping is needed to avoid any
interruption of the view of your favourite program. Endowed with EGS, electronic gyroscopes, DVB system (Digital Video Broadcasting) and NIT (Network Information Table), it guarantees a quick tracking and locking even in the most challenging weather conditions. Ready for future updates, is equipped with a DC / DC adapter that can be fed to 12/24 V dc, control unity with display LCD that allows that shows the antenna status and allows multi-satellite operation with 7 satellites already pre-loaded.
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I have been advised by a friend to purchase an omnidirectional TV Antenna, is this something you would recommend?

The omnidirectional TV antennas are the most popular Glomex’s item. Engineered to get the best omnidirectional performance both off shore and cruising, omnidirectional antenna's are chosen as standard equipment by all major boat builders worldwide.

Glomex offers a wide range of them: the V9125/00 COMPACT, V9112/00 MARINE MASTER, V9150 COMMUNITY,ALTAIR and the extra-compact antenna VEGA. The perfect solution both for the sailboats and for motorboats, they receive VHF and UHF frequency AT 12V DC - 24 V DC power or 220 V AC using an adaptor. Built using only extremely high quality material as ASA (three-dimensional co-polymer SAN resin reinforced with acrylic rubber), the radome ensure long life in the marine environment. All models are supplied with the following items: amplifier, wall and flush plastic mount, 20 mt of low loss twin screen coax cable, 1.5 mt of TV set cable and all the F gold plated connectors for the installation on board.
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HandiHoldall

What weight can I transport on a HandiHoldall?

The total weight of your load should not exceed 50kg. Please ensure that heavy items secured tightly within the HandiHoldall.
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Will the handling of my car be altered with the HandiHoldall attached?

Once the HandiHoldall is attached, the handling may be affected, requiring a reduction in speed and longer distances for braking. The car may also become susceptible to side winds.
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Is the HandiHoldall waterproof?

The HandiHoldall is manufactured from waterproof materials, but the bag itself is water resistant. We have taken every step to ensure that any potential water ingress is kept to a minimum.
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Is the HandiHoldall lockable?

It is possible padlock the two zip ties together to lock the HandiHoldall.
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Will the HandiHoldall fit my roof bars?

If you are securing a HandiHoldall to roof bars they need to be spaced between 580mm - 760mm apart.
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Does the HandiHoldall have a solid base?

A solid base is created in the HandiHoldall by inserting four glass fibre poles in the bottom foam cushion.
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HandiRack

What weight can I transport on a HandiRack?

The total weight of your load should not exceed 80kg. We strongly advise that you consult your vehicle owner's manual as the manufacturer's recommended maximum load for the vehicle's roof may be less than the weight of the load.
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Will the HandiRack work on a 2-door car?

Yes it will if the car has rear opening quarter light windows or you can place both sets of bars across the front door.
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Will the handling of my car be altered with the HandiRack attached?

The HandiRack on its own will not alter the handling characteristics of a car. However, once a load is attached, the handling may be affected, requiring a reduction in speed and longer distances for braking. The car may also become susceptible to side winds.
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At what speed is it safe to drive at with the HandiRack attached to the car?

Up to 70 miles per hour / 112 kilometres per hour (subject to national speed limit restrictions).
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Do ambient temperatures affect the pressure inside the HandiRack tubes?

As the HandiRack is air-filled, in warm conditions it is advisable to allow for the air within the tubes to expand a little. In colder conditions the opposite is the case. During the course of a journey, we recommend that the pressure of each tube is rechecked (as well as the security of the load).
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Isotherm

How does the Isotherm ASU compare to the Classic Refrigerator?

Isotherm ASU charges the holding plate while the engine is running.
The patented ASU system has now been available for more than 15 years and has been installed on tens of thousands of boats worldwide. The ASU system always starts the compressor when the engine is running and the power is "free" to chill the holding plate completely. The energy stored in the holding plate will keep the refrigerator cool for many hours. When the engine is stopped, the compressor will not restart until the energy stored in the plate is all but consumed. Only then will the compressor start to run for short periods to maintain the required temperature in the box. The ASU system always uses the stored energy first before automatically starting the compressor when the engine is running. With its unique principle of operation - the patented ASU "Automatic Start Up" system - Isotherm ASU has the advantage over traditional refrigerators.
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Cooling - how does it work?

Cooling - to remove heat from the food
A refrigerator does not produce cold but removes heat. An effective means of getting rid of this heat is critical for the refrigerator's performance and energy consumption. Isotherm refrigeration systems use either air or seawater to remove heat.

Air-cooling

Air-cooling is a traditional way of removing heat with a condenser where air is blown through by a fan. It is important that the compressor compartment is ventilated, so that cold air enters from below and hot air is allowed to escape above. The lower in the boat the compressor is installed the more "help" it gets from the outside water.

Self-pumping seawater cooled

* Seawater cooling for even higher efficiency.
* Lower power consumption.
* Silent - no fans or pumps.
* Heat removed by water means cooler inside the boat.
* No extra holes in hull required and no protru- sions.
* Simple to fit. Replaces the through-hull fitting for galley sink.

The Isotherm SP system is a totally new technique that is cooled directly by the surrounding water.

This means that refrigeration efficiency is completely independent of the air temperature inside the boat. Even on the hottest days of summer - just when a refrigerator is needed most - the water-cooled Isotherm SP operates consistently at an extremely high level of efficiency impervious to hot ambient temperatures. Without fans or pumps to remove the heat generated by the refrigeration compressor, the SP system consumes much less battery power and is remarkably quiet.

Although heat always rises if left to the laws of nature, the Isotherm SP unit uses the natural movement of the hull to draw heat down and out through a special fitting in the galley sink drain hose.

As this hose is not restricted by pumps or non-return valves, the flow inside is completely free. Each movement of the water surrounding the boat produces a similar change of the water level inside the hose resulting in the pumping of a similar quantity of water in and out through the hull fitting. By designing a special hull fitting containing a non-restricting, full-flow spiral heat exchanger for cooling the heated refrigeration agent, an extremely efficient cooling system is created. As the hull fitting is always situated some distance from the boat's centre of gravity, even the smallest movement of the hull or mast of a sailing boat is sufficient to create a pumping action. This movement by which warm water is continuously pumped out and cold water in, also prevents fouling. The through-hull fitting is made of salt-water resistant brass and the full-flow coil heat exchanger is of copper-nickel alloy. A zinc anode comes with the kit. The 1.5 metre pipe connecting it to the compressor and the 2-3 metre pipe from the holding plate are both pre-filled and fitted with quick-fit connectors.

Isotherm Magnum - Electric pump sea water cooled
Isotherm Magnum is designed especially for vessels where refrigeration requirements are exceptionally large or for extended sailing in tropical waters. Isotherm Magnum uses the surrounding water, always appreciably cooler than the air inside the boat, to increase cooling efficiency. All Magnum models are fitted with integral seawater pumps for circulating the cooling water through the cooling section of the refrigerator compressor. The pump is quiet, self-priming, withstands being run dry and is self-aerating. The highly efficient heat exchanger is manufactured in a corrosion-resistant copper-nickel alloy and fitted with a zinc anode. Seawater systems are unmatched in efficiency and offer increased cooling capacity.

Isotherm Magnum Twin
The Magnum Twin model is the largest and most modern refrigeration unit in the range, using twice the compressor power as the smaller Magnums. By connecting two Danfoss compressors together even the largest refrigerators (up to 500 litres) or freezer (up to 250 litres) will work to capacity. For trouble-free operation over long periods, the lubrication systems of both compressors are connected by means of a oil balance pipe. This design permits the unit to withstand extremely rough seas. A seawater-cooled integral oil cooler ensures continuous operation at full capacity even in tropical conditions.

An internal light kit is available (Part No. 10014).
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How to build your own cold box

Build a cold box in your boat. It is not difficult at all!.

Most boats are different but they do tend to have one thing in common and that is that they have very few right angels or regular shaped compartments. There are usually very few boats that can take a ready-made refrigerator or freezer - you just have to make it yourself! We can supply a flat-pack set of ready-cut insulated panels to help you build a customised box. The panels are covered on both sides with 2.5 mm plastic laminate of foodstuff quality and have 46 mm thick closed cell foam insulation in between. They are easy to cut and glue together using a polyurethane sealant or mould resistant silicone resulting in joints that are leak-proof but not totally inflexible. The kit consists of three insulation panels measuring 978x478x50 mm. Cover strips for the edges of the lid are included together with simple instructions.

A top-opening box is usually preferable. The cold air is not leaking out when the box is opened to the same degree as for a front opened fridge. A box can also be designed to fit the shape of the interior and the hull.
Select a suitable place on board there the box can be built. It is to prefer that the box is built in connection to the galley. Do not build a bigger box than necessary, it is better economy to have a smaller well filled up than a bigger half full box.
To access the box contents from above should be easy. The lid is normally a storage yard. The lid opening should be not lager than give access to both hands, when loading or taking out the provisions. It is a great help if the area for the box can be completely made free for moulding and building. Avoid building the box close to warm engine room or heater compartment. If that cannot be avoided, extra insulation must be added. Also have in mind that the connection pipe to the compressor is 2.5 m on evaporators and 3 m long on holding plates.

Try to create as many right angels as possible. Make the bottom as big as possible. The bottom shall be made in a size allowing the sides standing on the bottom panel. The bottom must be carefully fastened in the interior, the box filled with provisions must withstand the force during sailing in rough seas. Very often, additional supports and brackets must be manufactured. Normally it is to prefer that the top part will lie on top of the sides. The box will be more stable.
The lid is cut out from the top part and can either be hinged or loosely. If the lid is made loosely, which is often to prefer, make it either absolute square or obvious rectangular to make handling easy. On top of the lid plywood or a wooden alike plate can be mounted to match the interior.
The insulation end of the lid has to be protected with plastic strips, they are 2 mm thick, to create a smooth easy to clean surface.
It is important that the lid is well tight, to prevent warm air entering the box. Mount a rubber sealing strip on the lid.

Typ
SCD00001AA Kit, three panels 978 x 478 x 50 mm
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Isotherm SP FAQ

The self-pumping Isotherm SP system for onboard refrigeration continues to prove its value for sailors with demands. Since launched 1997 Isotherm SP has been given all over the world the possibility of refrigeration at extremely low energy-cost, regardless of geographical location. It is carried by completely unique design and operates on a totally different energy-saving principle to all other refrigeration systems on the market. A technique that took seven years to develop. It has now been used by boat builders, as well as boat owners for several years in the toughest conditions. But still, we get a lot of questions about this matchless way of getting rid of the heat. Some critical and some just by curiosity. Therefore, we have listed these FAQ's (Frequent Asked Questions) below together with our answers and hope that these will be of interest to you.

1. Does it really work? Does not the heated water just flow upwards in the hose for the sink?
Yes - the heated water does rise to waterline level in the hose where it comes to a standstill before rocking up-and-down. This, however, has no influence on the cooling effect as an equal volume of water as that rocking up-and-down flow in-and-out through the heat exchanger situated in the skin fitting. Here, every single movement - large or small - of the boat's hull in the water pumps in the same volume of cold water into the heat exchanger as the volume of heated water that has just been sucked out. It is precisely at the orifice of the skin fitting where the heat exchange action occurs - not in the water standing higher up in the hose to the sink. It is for this reason that the inside diameter of the hose at waterline level must be a minimum of 38 mm while that of the orifice in the skin fitting is only 27 mm in diameter. The resultant 2:1 area differential is very important as it creates an appreciable amount of additional turbulence in the orifice.

2. Is such a small heat exchanger coil really large enough to cool the refrigeration system?
Yes - in fact, even if only a piece of tubing the same length as that of the coil had been placed in the water outside the hull, it would still work! The heat, however, would then only be transported away by the "thermosiphon effect" of the surrounding water. In the skin fitting heat exchanger of the Isotherm SP, the water flow is also forced away by the self pumping action resulting in an appreciably higher efficiency level.

3. But if I close the seacock? What would happen then?
Turning off the sea cock when under sail or engine makes very little difference. When crossing waves and splashing, new water is continually being pushed into the skin fitting even if the seacock is shut. The same thing happens if you are tacking and hear a "gurgling" noise indicating that the ejector effect is sucking the air down from the sink. It works even then! The orifice of the special SP skin fitting is so designed that lateral movement through the water creates a slight over-pressure on one side and correspondingly slight under-pressure on the other side causing the water to splash up into the heat exchanger inside the skin fitting, a principle that also works in planing motor boats. If the seacock is closed in harbour, the refrigeration unit will still operate but at reduced efficiency. This reduction in efficiency, however, is of little importance when shore power is connected but it is preferable that the seacock is open.

4. We sail in warm waters, won't the heat exchanger become blocked by external fouling?
How often must I clean the coil? This is another good thing! You do not get fouling in the skin fitting for the sink if the seacock is open - this fitting is continually being flushed by water. In skin fittings for the engine, toilet or pumps, the water has no movement as they are often blocked by non-return valves, etc. Check this yourself when your boat is on shore next time.

5. If I accidentally block up the sink hose with an assortment of spaghetti, rice, potato peelings, etc., what should I do then?
If you were at home, phone for the plumber right away! If you are on your boat and happen to have an Isotherm SP onboard, all you have to do is to go sailing. Every single wave you plough through either under sail or motor results in very rapid and powerful pressure changes in the hose to the sink - so it cleans itself!

6. When in the West Indies, some mucous substance had to be continually removed from both the pump and heat exchanger of our traditional sea water cooled refrigeration unit. Surely this would also occur in an SP?
No, it would not! The water in the SP's skin fitting is always moving even when the refrigerator is switched off. In a traditional sea water cooled unit, the water in the system stops moving, for instance, each time the thermostat switches off the refrigerator and the water pump stops. This allows the fouling to start and increase rapidly particularly if light-penetrating transparent hoses have been fitted.

7. Our boat is used for long-distance cruising. When she is on shore for hull cleaning, etc., we usually live aboard. Could we still use our refrigerator?
Yes, it will still work and although it will require much more battery power, this is no problem as adequate shore power is usually connected in this situation. The SP heat exchanger coil becomes air-cooled using the "chimney effect" created by the flow of warm air rising up through the sink hose. It is important, however, that the drain plug for the sink is always removed after use to increase circulation of the air.

8. But what about corrosion?
The risk of corrosion must always be kept in mind. So-called "noble" metals should always be used for those components which, if they fail, would cause serious damage; when mixing materials consideration must be given to their position on the electro-magnetic scale; always fit a sacrificial zinc anode which compensate for the difference in potential. The electrical system of your boat must be checked regularly for current leakage. All Isotherm units have a separate earth and are carefully inspected during production for current leaks. If you have reasons to suspect that there could be a risk of galvanic corrosion aboard, the special sacrificial anode for the SP skin fitting should be fitted. Should there be considerable attack and material loss of the anode during a season, the reason for this must be found. The heat exchanger coil of SP is made of a copper/nickel alloy and the skin fitting itself of dezincification-resistant annealed brass certified by Lloyds. The hard-soldering of the connections is in silver.

9. How much less power does a SP or Magnum consume?
Isotherm SP is available in different versions, both with ASU - "Automatic Start Up" in combination with a holding plate, or with a traditional thermostat control and a direct evaporator. In normal northern European waters, an SP-type unit will have a 10-20 % lower power consumption compared to that of a corresponding air-cooled unit. In tropical conditions, however, when savings are most needed, power consumption can be reduced by as much as 30-50%. This efficiency increase is largely due to the greater difference between sea and air temperatures in these waters. Sea water temperatures are normally in the region of 25°-30°C, whilst the air temperature inside the boat where the compressor is installed can be 30°, 40°or even 50°C.

10. We want to install both refrigerator and freezer onboard. Is it possible to fit two or more units to same skin fitting?
No, it isn't - each unit is separate entity and each requires its own heat exchanger skin fitting. These, however, may be connected to the same sink. It is also possible to have one or more heat exchanger skin fitting positioned below the waterline and connected to an existing or additional 1/2" diameter through-hull air-vent positioned well-above the water line.

11. We already have a working refrigerator aboard. Is it possible to rebuild it for SP?
Sorry - this is not possible. An SP unit is split into three separate parts, each pre-filled with refrigerant and special re-openable quick couplings. From both an economical and a liability point-of-view it is not convenient to re-build.
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Isotherm tips

* If possible minimize the load on the refrigerator when the engine is not running by loading in food stuffs that are already chilled.

* Because cooling generates heat, good ventilation of the compressor compartment is essential for air cooled systems. If the temperature in the vicinity of the compressor rises above +40°C, ventilation needs to be improved to allow cool air (preferably from the bilge where the air is coolest) to enter at the bottom and the warm air to leave at the top. A few holes the size of a large coin are usually sufficient. All air-cooled Isotherm units with holding plates are equipped with a fan which speeds up the air flow.
* If you have chosen sea water cooled Isotherm SP or Magnum model, high temperature inside the boat is immaterial.

* When the refrigerator is not in use - even for a short period - always leave the door or lid slightly open to avoid unpleasant odours.

* The condensation drain in the box should always be closed when the refrigerator is in operation otherwise the heavier cold air will run out at the bottom to be replaced by lighter warm damp air from the boat.

* It is uneconomical to turn off the refrigerator during the night. In addition to an increase in average power consumption when it is started up again, it is also harmful for the food.

Isotherm and ASU's advantages over other refrigerators

1. Continually senses current refrigeration requirements and level of power available onboard.

2. Builds up a supply of cooling energy in the cold-holding plate when a surplus of power is available.

3. Takes advantage first and foremost of the cooling energy already stored instead of consuming battery power.

4. Recognises the difference between various power sources and regulates the system accordingly:

* When the engine is running and a large power surplus is generated under the 5-10 minutes it takes to leave or enter harbour, Isotherm ASU goes into turbo-charger mode to take full advantage of the short power surge.

* If a solar panel or shore-powered battery charger is producing the charge, this is often of low power but is available for a long period. Isotherm ASU registers the difference and allows the compressor (both compressors in TWIN) to run at exactly the correct speed so that batteries and other power-consuming equipment have first priority, but still charges the cold-holding plate somewhat slower so that the temperature in the box does not become too cold. If the solar panel is in shadow for a while, Isotherm then eases off and reduces compressor speed accordingly.

7. Isotherm ASU adjusts itself automatically to suit you refrigeration requirements. Should you load a large amount of warm food into the fridge at the same time, or leave the door open by mistake, the ASU system increases refrigeration capacity only enough to cool the food to a level so that it will not be spoiled.

6. Isotherm ASU doesn't dither about! Should the level of power available or refrigeration requirements change, the system first waits 30 seconds to see if the change is stable. It then determines what action is required before carrying out its task. The ASU function is also programmed for a fixed shortest running time and shortest stand-still time so that it doesn't start and stop unnecessarily thereby reducing its high efficiency factor.

7. An Isotherm ASU system continually adjusts itself to current surroundings. Whether supplied together with a compressor unit to be fitted in a bilge-cooled space on a boat used in Northern waters, or another in Dubai where it will be installed in a hot engine room, the same ASU system senses the difference. It then regulates the speed of the cooling fan or sea water pump to exactly the level required to remove the heat generated by the compressor. This is important as the sound level of the compressors are so low that even the slight amount of noise made by the fan or pump could be heard.

8. Isotherm ASU has low-voltage cut-off and reverse polarity protection, runs on both 12 and 24 volt and has full radio interference suppression.
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Where can I find a Manual/Instructions for my Isotherm Product?

You can find the manual/instructions that you are looking for under our resources section of our website
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Can a water heater be installed vertically?

The boiler must be installed with all connection on the bottom side or at least in horizontal position (as shown on the manual page 6). Installing the boiler with connections on the top part means that the gasket suffers overheating by the engine water and melts away, causing it to break. So please install the boiler in horizontal position or with connection to the bottom.
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Kenyon

What is the most durable style of ceramic glass offered by Kenyon Custom?

The subtly textured glass with beveled edge found in the Mediterranean and Lite-Touch Series protects against superficial scratches in the surface and resists chipping along the edge from accidental impact by the cooking vessel or other heavy object.
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Where can I find a Manual/Instructions for my Kenyon Product?

You will find these on the resources section of our website
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Which is the most cost effective model?

That question is best answered by first asking if you need to replace your countertop. If your countertop is still in good condition and you are replacing a coil cook top, then the Polar Series will allow you to upgrade your cook top from a coil to ceramic cook top sans countertop replacement in most cases and puts a freeze on renovation costs! If you are installing a ceramic cook top for the first time and will be making a cut-out in the countertop, the most economical model is the Caribbean Series based on the lower price point.
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Do I just plug it in?

It all depends on your product selection – read on….. If you are purchasing the Lite-Touch Q Outdoors cook top model B41573 or any of the All Seasons Grill models, they are equipped with a 3-prong plug with inline GFCI that connects to a standard wall outlet. However, if you are selecting any other ceramic cook top, they are supplied with a 3 foot conduit that is designed to be hard-wired by your electrician on-site. If you wish to install a plug, you may instruct your electrician to do so.
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If it’s bad weather outside, can I bring my grill indoors to use?

Yes, unlike open flame gas and charcoal grills, the Kenyon Custom All Seasons Grill may safely be used indoors without the fear of carbon monoxide poisoning. In addition, the All Seasons Grill is virtually smokeless due to its patent pending design so ventilation is not required. Clean, safe and smokeless indoors or out!
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Are Kenyon Custom cook tops ADA-compliant?

That depends on the installation orientation. If the cook top is installed in the countertop so that the knobs are in front of the burners, and it does not require the operator to reach over a live burner to adjust the knob controls, then it is considered ADA-compliant. Therefore, if a 2-burner “trimline” size cook top is installed with the longest dimension running from the backsplash to the front edge of the countertop, and the shorter dimension running across from left to right, or stated another way, in the “portrait” orientation, then the claim may be made that the cook top is ADA-compliant. Cook tops installed in the landscape orientation then, conversely, are not ADA-compliant. Therefore, it is the installation that determines if a particular model is ADA-compliant, but not all cook tops can be installed in order to allow them to be compliant to ADA-standards, due to size and positioning of the controls. Confused? - please contact our sales department with any specific questions.
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Do Kenyon Custom cook tops utilize Induction technology for cooking?

The new SilKEN induction cooking system combines the energy efficiency of induction cooking with innovative integrated silicone pads to allow easy clean-up and prevent heat build-up on the cooking surface caused by conduction of heat energy away from the cooking vessel back to the cook tops surface, which occurs with other manufacturer’s induction cook tops, and negates the cool surface claim. Kenyon Custom cook tops in the Mediterranean, Alpine, Caribbean, Polar, and Lite-Touch series utilize traditional radiant ribbon technology for cooking, which do get hot to the touch but are equipped with ON and HOT indicator lights for user safety.
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Can I change the voltage on the cook top?

Kenyon Custom cook tops are manufactured for 120, 208 or 240 Volts. If you have 110 Volts, it is fine to use the 120 Volt model. Analogously, if you have 220 volts, please order the 240 Volt model. The voltage can not be changed on a cook top after it has been manufactured and sent to you – so please double check your voltage prior to ordering to avoid return shipping & restocking fees.
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My burner does not heat up?

Please check to see that the voltage source to your cook top is the same as required by the appliance. For example, if your cook top was manufactured for 240 Volts and it is installed on a 120 Volt circuit, you would only be getting half the power needed for proper operation of the cook top. Please contact our technical service department to assist with trouble-shooting your unique situation.
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How can I obtain a manual for my cook top/grill?

The manuals can be found under the Resources section of our website. Once you are there you then click on the appropriate manual for your cook top/grill.
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Ritchie

What type of fluid is in my Ritchie Magnetic Compass?

Until 2001, all Ritchie compasses (see exception) were filled with odorless mineral spirits. Ritchie now uses a fluid called Isopar L® that has similar properties but some added benefits over odorless mineral spirits. These can be mixed together.

Exception: Some old style Flat Top Compasses used a mix of isopropyl alcohol and water. This process was stopped in the 1960s. If you have a Flat Top Compass, it is recommended that you test the fluid to see if it is odorless mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol.
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My Ritchie Compass has a bubble or is very low on fluid. Is this a problem?

Ritchie compasses are designed to not have a bubble; if you see a bubble, there is a leak. This may seem unlikely to you, because you may not have noticed any fluid escaping from the compass. Ritchie compasses are filled with Isopar L® or odorless mineral spirits. Both tend to evaporate before it is noticeable. Bubbles may cause a number of problems, so it is recommended that you have the compass repaired as soon as possible.
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Where can I find a Manual/Instructions for my Ritchie Product?

You can find a wide variety of product manuals, including Ritchie under the resources section of our website.
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What are the wires for on my Ritchie Magnetic Compass?

Most Ritchie compasses come equipped with a night light system which should be connected to the boat’s DC electrical system.
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Will my compass still work if I do not hook up the light wires?

Yes; unlike electronics, i.e., chart plotters, etc., magnetic compasses do not need electrical power to work. The only part of the compass affected by a loss of power is the night lighting.
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Why is my Ritchie Magnetic Compass accurate in one direction but not in another?

Magnetic compasses work by aligning the internal dial magnets with the earth’s magnetic field. However, the earth is not the only object with a magnetic field. Objects on your boat may have a magnetic field which will interfere with the compass’ accuracy. This is known as onboard compass deviation. These fields can sometimes be tricky to find. You can refer to the “Compensation Procedure” below for more information on correcting this problem.

Compass Compensation

A built-in correcting magnet system, standard on all compass models, consists of two sets of magnets fixed to two adjusting rods with slotted ends. The slots should be horizontal before starting the adjusting procedure. A small non-magnetic screwdriver is provided for this purpose. On bracket and deck models, the black plastic inserts must be removed to gain access to the slotted compensator rod ends. Before starting compensation, check the area around the compass to make sure all material of a magnetic nature is secure and in its sea-going position. Through the years, many methods and devices have been used to compensate compasses, such as gyros, azimuth circles, sextants, or a pelorus. However, we are going to show you one simple, yet effective method, using equipment that you should have on your boat, and another method using equipment you might have on your boat.

Method 1.
Step one. With the compass in its intended position, but not finally secured, select a course on your chart using two identifiable marks, buoys or landmarks that are within ten degrees (10°) of the North/South line. Try to select this course so that you can maneuver your boat "down range" of the marks selected (See example).
Step two. From a position down range of the North/South marks, and keeping the marks lined up, run the boat visually along the Northerly course selected. Turn the port/starboard compensator until the compass reads correctly.
Step three. Reversing direction, run the boat Southerly, again keeping the marks lined up. If the compass is not correct at this time, there is an alignment error. To correct, rotate the compass itself to remove one half of this error. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 and then recheck this Step 3.
Step four. Simply repeat the procedures of Steps 1, 2 and 3, except this time, using and East/West course and the fore/aft compensator, although at this time any alignment error should have been eliminated.
Step five. Upon completing the procedure, secure the compass in its final position.

Method 2. (Requires the use of GPS or Loran)
Step one. While at sea, with the compass in its intended position, but not finally secured, obtain the Loran/GPS bearing to a visual buoy or landmark that is within 10o of a North/South line.
Step two. Position your boat along that line and steer your boat directly at that mark. Turn the port/starboard compensator until the compass heading matches the Loran/GPS bearing.
Step three. Check the Southerly course by steering away from the mark, to a bearing 180° from Step 2. The compass heading should be bearing from or bearing to +180 degrees. If any error is present, it is an alignment error. Rotate the compass itself to correct for one half of this error. Repeat Steps 1 & 2 and then recheck this Step 3.
Step four. Simply repeat the procedures of Steps 1, 2 and 3 for the East/West course, using the fore/aft compensator, although, at this time, any alignment error should have been eliminated, and no alignment correction is required.
Step five. Upon completing the procedure, secure the compass in its final position.
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Can I hire someone to Compensate (adjust) my Ritchie compass?

Yes. Although Ritchie provides easy to follow instructions for performing compensation yourself, professionals are generally available. These professionals can be a great help to anyone who has a difficult compass installation. If your compass has a considerable amount of deviation (more than 20°), the built-in compensators may not be enough. A compass adjuster is trained to help you locate potential causes of deviation and make recommendations to reduce them. A compass adjuster should also have a working knowledge of deck magnets. Deck magnets can increase the amount of deviation that can be corrected during compensation. Your local marina or harbor master should be able to put you in touch with a compass adjuster.
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With the advent of GPS, why do you need a Magnetic Compass?

A magnetic compass is the cornerstone of any navigation system. The magnetic compass gives you real-time heading for your boat. This information, when added to the position capability of the GPS, provides a complete navigation system. Other devices, such as chart plotters and radars, will add to your navigation capabilities, but you should always start with a properly compensated magnetic compass.
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Does my GPS provide heading?

No; GPS can tell you where you are, it knows where you have been, and it can calculate where you are going. It can never give you heading. GPS provides Course over Ground (COG). COG is calculated from historical position data to give average COG. It is important to realize that COG and heading are both an integral part of navigation. Conditions such as wind, tide, current and even physical properties of your boat, can cause differences between COG and heading. Heading is the only reliable reference to steer your vessel accurately under all conditions. A properly compensated magnetic compass is the best device for real time heading information.
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Why does my older Ritchie compass seem slow and unresponsive?

Ritchie compass dials are built with matched hardened steel pivot and sapphire jewel bearing surfaces. Although you can expect to get years of use from your compass, certain parts may begin to wear out. If you notice problems with the dial, contact Ritchie.
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Why is my Ritchie compass exactly 180 degrees off course?

Ritchie makes three types of dials that read quite differently. If you are not familiar with the difference, you may not be reading the dial properly. The first type is a traditional open face dial; the lubber line marks your heading at the rear of the compass. The second is a direct-read dial, most commonly mistaken for being 180° off course. The key to reading the heading on a direct-read dial is that you must read the front of the dial, not the back; if you hold your compass out in front of you at about eye level you will see the lubber line, which marks the direction you are facing. The third dial type, the CombiDamp style dial, combines features of both dial types and is generally not confused with being 180° off course.
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SMEV

List of pre approved Dometic engineers

Please refer to the website www.DometicApproved.co.uk , for details on your nearest Dometic Engineer.
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Sterling

How effective is advanced battery charging on a battery and can it damage the battery?

I am asked all the time; do I really need advanced charging on my batteries? What effect does a split charge diode have on charging? What percentage of improvement will our products make on a system? Will the extra fast charging boil my battery? Will it excessively gas the battery? What effect in real terms can I expect? Most of the questions stem from old wives’ tales, rampant in this market. The idea behind this article, is to lay to rest all the old wives tales and offer the facts. Remember, the below results are extreme and meant to show just how hard you can charge an open lead acid battery with no adverse effects.

Part 1: The effect of voltage on battery charging

There is no magic with advanced charging systems. In effect all they do is increase the differential voltage between where the battery is and the charge voltage; in other words, the higher the voltage that is applied to a battery, the faster it will charge. However, the down side is, that if you do not control that higher voltage after the charge is completed, you will overcharge and damage your batteries. This simple experiment will show you the direct relationship between actual voltage applied to a battery and the current (amps) being absorbed by it. This will give you an insight into how your system can be improved and where the problem may lie.

This information is 100% accurate and can be reproduced on any test bench at any time, it is not a sales gimmick from Sterling; but a help sheet to show the general public in simple graphic terms what effect the higher voltage attained by advanced charging has on batteries.

The test is very simple and not open to misinterpretation. We will use a simple lead acid, so called 'leisure battery', of about 100 amp hrs; a low cost, nothing fancy battery. All we have done is to discharge the battery to about 50% of its capacity, then connect it to a 180 amp regulated power supply. We will simply pick key voltages and log the current the battery can absorb at different voltages as it charges.

For example, the red line shows that when the battery was 50% full at 13.2 volts the charge current was 35 amps and at 14.8 volts the charge current was 160 amps. An improvement off about 457%. However the black line on the graph which was taken when the battery was about 70 – 75% full, shows that at 13.2 volts the current was about 1 amp (showing that at 13.2 volts the battery was full, in its opinion); whereas at 14.8 volts we were still putting in about 60 amps; a charge improvement of 6000%. (Rather an improvement to say the least).
Why the specific voltages?

The voltages chosen are real voltages which one would expect to see in real life.
13.2 Volts

This voltage appears in 2 main circumstances.

* If you use a split charge diode then one would expect this sort of voltage at the battery.
* Most alternators now have a built in temperature compensator on their regulator. When the engine room heats up (especially on a vehicle) then the assumption made by the alternator manufacturers is that the battery should be full. So as the warm air in the engine room is pulled past the regulator the voltage from the alternator is reduced; the end result is, that we have seen standard vehicle alternators start off at 14.8 volts and drop to 13.2 volts in vehicles (with the bonnet down) after about 20 minutes. This is o.k. for the starter battery but will ensure your secondary batteries never charges correctly (as per the graph).

14 Volts

This is where most alternators start from; and is a standard expected alternator voltage from a alternator.
14.4 Volts

This is the voltage used to charge sealed lead acid batteries to prevent gassing.
14.8 Volts

This is the voltage one can push up to in open lead acid batteries without any damage to ancillary equipment, which will be connected to the battery at the same time. Apart from the obvious increase in charge rate this prevents sulphation of the batteries.

Having established the dramatic charge improvement which a battery can achieve with the increase in voltage, the many sceptics amongst us will now say, well OK, the battery will charge faster, but you will gas the battery profusely. You will over heat it and boil it; and all that extra current going into it will not being stored; but simply gassed off. Meaning in essence, that the apparent fast charge is a waste of time and that all you have done is wreck the battery. All appear valid points and are prolific rumours. Now let’s see if they are true or simply old wives’ tales.

Part 2: Will this fast charge rate cause problems?

With test 2, we take 4 x 100 amp identical lead acid batteries as per the above test. We connect all 4 together and discharge them to the same level. Then we charge one at a time (using a 200 amp regulated power supply) and over a 1.5 hour period and see how much charge in the form of amps are absorbed into the battery. Then using an amp hour counter we can measure the actual amp hours which have passed into the battery. After the battery has completed its charge cycle at the allocated voltage, we see if the amps are actually in the battery as storage amps. We do this by discharging the battery through an inverter with a 400 watt light bulb load; timing how long each battery can run the load after it has completed its charge cycle. If the amp hour counter shows more amps going into the battery and the load runs for a longer period of time; then the amps must have been stored in the battery. We also measure the battery temperature before and after the charge run to see if the battery is in danger (50C is when a battery starts to have problems) of overheating and boiling.
Answers to the questions based on actual facts

1. Will the fast charge rate also put more into my batteries? One can clearly see that on the 13.3 volt charge only 21 amp hours were put into the battery as opposed to 60 amp hours with the 14.8 charge. An improvement of about 300%.
2. Did this 300% improvement actually go into the battery or was it simply lost in heat and gas etc? The inverter discharge test clearly shows that the 13.2 volt battery ran the inverter for 48 minutes, whereas the 14.8 volt test ran the inverter for 114 minutes, a clear 230% improvement. So yes, the extra amps were being stored in the battery and were accessed by the inverter and used.
3. Will the high charge rate boil my batteries? One can see the rise in the battery temperature at 14.8 volts was from 18C to 32C, which is still well below the manufacturers recommended temperature limit of 50C. Also bear in mind that this test was charging a 100 amp hour battery at 150 amps, in real life with 4 x 100 amp hour batteries you would need a 500 amp alternator or battery charger to be able to reproduce this test run.
4. Is it possible to put a lot of power into a battery in 1 hr? The graph clearly shows that the bulk of the power absorbed by the charger was in the first hour. So obviously the battery was comfortable with this as the temperature rise was well within the battery's limits.
5. Does a 100 amp hour battery give 100 amps of useful power? Simply not true; even with the best charger, at least 40% or 40 amp hours tends to be no use in a battery.
6. Are there any other benefits from this fast charging? Yes, you also de sulphate the batteries, dramatically increasing the life of them. You will also reduce the running hours of your engine and fuel costs, associated with the charging of the batteries. In fact there are no down sides to this process.

Conclusion

It’s quite clear that all the fears are old wives’ tales. Now all you have to do to harness this information is to add a computer program to store the charging curves, allowing the software to control the charge of your batteries and then, hey presto, welcome to the world of advanced digital charging from Sterling power products.
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What is the best battery to use for an auxiliary charging system?

What is the best battery to use for an auxiliary charging system?

I keep getting asked this question all the time, when being asked which is the best battery. I refer to marine or vehicle auxiliary charging batteries or domestic batteries. To say there is a lot of confusing literature about this subject would be the understatement of the year. The information in the literature tends to be correct, but it's the bits which are not in the literature and the customers' assumptions that cause the confusion and hence the problems. I will try to answer the question. But in order to save you time, I suggest you adopt the following attitude and make the person trying to sell you these things answer the questions below.
The key question

Another way to approach this subject is the simple Irish way (being Irish myself). I went onto the web and obtained 3 different battery type prices, these were the first prices I came to and have no reflection on any company. I was looking for about a 100 amp hour battery.

* 100 amp hour leisure. Normal open lead acid (so called leisure) £49.99
* 100 amp hour AGM = £175
* 100 amp hour Gel = £265.59

So in my simple mind the AGM is about 3 times more expensive than the standard one. And the Gel, about 5 times more. So the question is; if these batteries are 3 – 5 times more expensive than the standard one, what do they do that is 3 – 5 times better? Do they last 3 – 5 times longer? (I think not, more like the reverse). Do they charge 3 – 5 times faster to reduce your engine running hours? (Only in their dreams.) So rather than ask me weird questions; please ask the sales man, who is trying to sell this stuff for cycling, exactly what you are getting that is 3 – 5 times better than standard lead acid batteries. Then please let me know as I could do with a good laugh.
The brutal truth about marine leisure batteries

There is no such thing as a marine battery. If you see a marine label on a battery it is simply words and may as well say Mickey Mouse.

For cost and performance open lead acid batteries are king. All other batteries are a derivative of this, with variations to suit different markets, where there are specific problems implementing the standard lead acid battery. E.g. Gel, is a standard lead acid battery except that the acid has been transformed into gel. But by solidifying the electrolyte, you introduce many problems not associated with free flowing water based batteries.

“Most expensive is best” This is so not even close to being true. In fact I would say the reverse is true in the marine leisure market. When reading all the sales literature regarding Gel/AGM, please note that none of their curves and claims refer to standard lead acid batteries. (They know better). They never claim they have better performance than standard open lead acid, this is just an assumption on your side. They claim weird things including longer shelf life and that you can turn them upside down and have your dinner under them. Who cares? I want fast charging, long life, plus good value for money from my batteries. I don't want to sit and watch them on a shelf for a year and have my dinner under one.

If a statement says that this is the best battery. The question is, best at what aspect?

If the term 'maintenance free', is on a battery, then treat this with caution. There is no such thing as maintenance-free, all batteries are basically the same. A Gel, sealed lead acid and AGM are all only maintenance-free because of the reduced charging performance curves; and not because there is something special about the battery. If you charge a normal lead acid battery to the Gel or AGM curves, then they would not require maintenance either. Remember 'maintenance free' is a handicap to fast charging not an advantage. This feature, which on the surface looks good, is, in most cases the worst feature that you could possibly buy; as this feature dramatically limits the maximum charging characteristics of the battery.

Fast charging costs water, i.e. if you want to charge you batteries fast, don't touch a Sealed/Gel/AGM etc with a barge pole. Fast charging will result in a certain % water loss from the battery. If the battery is sealed the water loss cannot be replaced. REMEMBER FAST CHARGING AND SEALED/MAINTAINCE-FREE ARE A CONTRADICTION OF TERMS. You may not like this, but tough, it's the way it is.

Watch the term leisure / deep cycle as it simply does not exist. The standard, so called, leisure batteries, are simply starter batteries with extra support for the active lead material. This may increase the life by 5 – 10 %, but does not turn a starter battery into a deep cycle battery. True traction (deep cycle) are not available at a sensible price and are uneconomical to use for standard leisure use. However, if you plan to live onboard or travel the world then do look at 6 V or 2 V traction and build your battery bank up from those batteries, but expect to pay about 3 – 6 times the price of so called standard leisure batteries. On a daily use cycle, the standard so called leisure battery (which is a starter battery) will last you as little as 6 – 8 months whereas traction would last 15 years. But on a leisure rating (2 weekends per month and about 4 weeks’ holiday) then you would get about 5 – 7 years out of a standard leisure. That's if you charge it right using advanced regulators and constant current battery chargers).

Battery sales companies quote battery cycles such as 6000 cycles for the battery. This looks good on the surface, however it will be 6000 cycles at say 10% discharge. This is a meaningless figure. All batteries have a manufacturers' graph, which odds are, you will not see in full; as the embarrassing section tends to end up on the advertising company’s editing floor. The graph will have % discharge on one side and cycles on the other. This graph is sometimes shown on glossy battery information, but is normally censored at about 30 – 40% discharge, where the figures can still show 4000 cycles. What they fail to show is the 100% discharge cycle (which they of course say you should never go to and I am not for one moment suggesting you should). This, at the end of the day is the only ultimate datum point. Whichever battery performs the best at 100% discharge, will perform best at 50% etc. The interesting fact is that they are all about the same, that is, because they are all basically the same battery. A Gel and conventional starter battery go down the same production line until one has a gel substance put in it and the other liquid. The shock with this figure is that for Gel, Sealed, or leisure, etc, the constant figure is about 30 – 60 cycles, whereas true traction with thicker plates is over 300+. (However, don't expect to see this graph on glossy literature, as they are way too frightened of this graph and will not release it). It is however available from correctly specked commercial batteries.
So which is the best battery for standard domestic leisure use?

The job I am referring to is for auxiliary charging systems on boats, camper vans or vehicles. I am not getting into what each and every battery type is best at, or for; as each type has a market, it just maybe not this market.

To pick the best battery for your job, then at least understand how they work. Forget the actual chemical formula and all the fancy terms around. The bottom line is that lead acid batteries have been around since the 1st World War and the basic principles have changed very little since. The only thing we all agree on is that they are not environmentally friendly, but are cheap to make and will remain king until such time as someone comes up with a solution which can compete. Which by the way to date they simply have not. How do I know this? Well it’s very simple, if they had, the lead acid battery would be out the door so fast its toes would not touch the ground.
So how do they work?

Let’s understand the basics. They are all lead acid, but fall into 2 basic groups. A starter battery and a traction battery (fork lift truck, true deep cycle).

Type 1 (starter batteries). A battery is simply a bucket of energy. If you wish to get the energy out fast, to start an engine (cold cranking rating) then you need a large surface area (large plate size). The only way to get a large surface area into the bucket, is to make the plates thin, so they can squeeze into the bucket (this is your starter battery; it needs the cold cranking kick in order to start the car, so its plates are thin to achieve this). This theory is pushed even further with batteries which increase this surface area more, to make what are known as high torque batteries. These deliver even higher cold cranking, by putting the plates in a 'swiss roll' configuration, in order to make them thinner and increase the surface area. This is good for cold cranking, but has a fatal flaw when it comes to fast charging. (The problem is, it works too well when charging and destroys itself).

Type 2 (traction or fork lift truck batteries). These batteries are not interested in the cold cranking kick, which is required for a starter battery, but are still interested in the power in the bucket. So they can reduce their surface area of the plates. The good thing about being able to reduce the surface area is that you can make the plates much thicker. The end result is you still get the same power from the bucket it is simply delivered at a slower rate.

So, for deep cycle and long life, the traction batteries are by far and away the best. But their price tends to kill them. However, if you are doing a long journey around the world, or going away from the UK for 2 years plus, then investing in 2 volt or 6 volt traction batteries is a must, regardless of the cost. They will pay for themselves many times over. For general leisure use they are the best, but a bit of a waste of money, unless you intend keeping the boat for 15 years to get the use out of them.
So what's the end result of these two battery types?

A battery is made up of lead plates, with a lead paste on the plates. Every time the battery is used, then so many bits per sq inch fall off the plates, if you have a large surface area then a large number of bits will fall off. Then to make matters worse your paste is thin so you cannot afford to lose the paste. However, if you have a small surface area and thicker plates the same is true, but the plates are thicker and as such, you can afford to lose a small amount of paste. In a nutshell, that is it, or be it in very simplistic terms, those are the differences between traction batteries and starter batteries.

As you can see from the above 2 battery types, the plate configuration cannot be blended. If for starting, you have a large surface area of thin plates, for traction you have a small surface area of thicker plates. One is black and one is white, there is no grey area. So, if you are purchasing a battery and it has a cold cranking rating and the salesman says it is a deep cycle battery, but will also start your engine; then it is in fact a starter battery (end of story).
What we want now is the best for general leisure

Having understood the 2 basic types then you need to ask yourself: what do you want from the battery?

Most people want

* to charge their batteries as fast as possible in order to reduce their engine hours
* to pay as little as possible for the above
* to get about 5 – 7 years use as a leisure battery (2 weekends per month and about 4 weeks’ holiday per year).

If you are using your boat for leisure only, then stick to low cost lead acid so called leisure. If you want to turn your boat upside down for 5 seconds then the Lead Acid range with sealed removable caps would be a good choice.

If you want to turn you boat upside down for an hour or two then a Sealed Lead Acid would be worth looking at. However don't expect to charge them as fast.

Having had my so-called opinion published in a UK. boating magazine (boy, do Gel battery suppliers love me. I was taken off their Christmas card list), a Dutch magazine ran with it and the response was very good. The UK magazine did not follow up the article, however the Dutch magazine called ‘Zeilen' did. (The editor is Ruud Kattenberg.) They took the article and not only published it, but ran with it a lot of questions to their readers on their web page. They received over 500 responses and were able to confirm all my findings and published the results. (Not that I need any confirmation as we do this for a living, but it's always nice to have an independent source for folk who doubt you). Is this not what magazines are all about, trying to help the people who buy them and have a bit of a dialogue going?
Conclusion

The best battery to use for fast charging using advanced charging systems

* For general leisure use: use low cost Lead Acid which can be topped up with water. So called leisure batteries
* For long term cruising then use 6 volt traction

Avoid Gel / AGM for 3 reasons

1. very expensive
2. their fast charger rate causes them to gas
3. poor cycling numbers.
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Warranty Information

Warranty Information
2 year guarantee: return to factory

If in the first 2 years you have a faulty Sterling product, the product should be returned direct to Sterling (to speed up the help process) and they will endeavour to repair or replace the product immediately. Sterling cannot be held responsible for the return carriage.
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Where can I find a Manual/Instructions for my Sterling Product?

Just pop over to the resources section of our website, where we have a wide range of product manuals and instructions, which include Sterling manuals
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SuperPump

Where and why would I need SUPERPUMP?

The SUPERPUMP can be used anywhere liquid has to be transferred quickly safely and without spillage, without heavy lifting.
Car, emergency refueling, Boat, from cannister into motor tank, Emptying aquarium's, spa's, blocked sink's, storage tanks, for water or chemicals
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What maintenance do you recommend for the tube?

After usage, rinse and store it unrolled.
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Can I transfer diesel using Superpump?

Yes all liquids, diesel, petrol, kerosene, heating oil, water, thinners etc.
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Treadmaster

Can treadmaster original be fitted to hyperlon rib tubes?

Yes there's no reason why you can't use Bostik 2402 to stick Treadmaster to fibreglass, but in general you don't need the flexibility of 2402 to bond to a fibreglass deck and my normal preference would be for the TM marine epoxy resin. It's partly a question of which type of adhesive you prefer to use. Some people prefer using contact adhesives, in which case Bostik 2402 will give a very durable bond.

If you're bonding to a fibreglass surface that will be flexing a lot then 2402 is probably better than an epoxy.
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We have bought Treadmaster step pads to use on our fiberglass deck. The shop holder advised us to use sikaflex 291 for fitting. Can you tell me if this is correct?

Step pads come with an adhesive backing already in place. The backing paper only needs peeling off and the pad is pressed down on to the clean deck. You don't need any other adhesive. I'm surprised the shop didn't know that!

Two points -
Make sure the deck is spotlessly clean first, then finish with a good wipe with methylated spirit or acetone to make sure there's no trace of contamination, grease, etc.
Press the pad down very firmly - roll down if possible, and when sticking down the DP (diamond pattern) pads, use a straight edge (ruler or similar) to press the pads down between the diamonds as well as on the tops.

Although it's not essential, it is a good precaution to run a bead of colourless silicone bath sealant around the edge of the pads to make sure no water can penetrate between the deck and pads.
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Where can i get the latest Material Safety Data Sheets for Treadmaster Products?

Material Safety Data Sheets are available to download from:

http://www.tiflex.co.uk/MSDS/msds.html

Treadmaster Marine Products are manufactured by Tiflex Limited.
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Do you have a video on how to fit Treadmaster?

Yes, please visit this link by Treadmaster: http://www.treadmaster.co.uk/fitting.html
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True Utility

Which batteries for which tools?

TU01 Torch Watch: 1x SR626sw 1x CR2032 button cell batteries supplied
TU13 LED Pen Light: 3x LR41 button cell batteries supplied
TU14 LED Tiny Torch: 4x LR41 button cell batteries supplied
TU18 LED Carabineer: 2x CR1220 button cell batteries supplied
TU19 LED Button Light: 2x CR1616 button cell batteries supplied
TU20 LED Micro Torch: 4x LR41 button cell batteries supplied
TU21 LED Clip Light: 3x LR41 button cell batteries supplied
TU22 LED Knife Light: 1x CR1220 button cell batteries supplied
TU25 8 LED Flashlight: 4x AA not supplied
TU26 6 LED Flashlight: 4x AAA not supplied
TU27 4 LED Flashlight: 3x AAA not supplied
TU28 3 LED Flashlight: 1x AA not supplied
TU30 DogTag Tool: 2x CR927 button cell batteries supplied
TU40 TravelBug: 2x CR927 button cell batteries supplied
TU50 LockLite: 2x CR1616 button cell batteries supplied
TU80 Compact TrueLite: 3x AAA not supplied
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How do I bleed the air from my lighter?

If the lighter fails to ignite after completing all the usual checks and it is certain that there is an ignition spark and that the lighter contains plenty of fuel, it may require bleeding to remove trapped air from the fuel tank. To bleed the lighter, hold it upside down and press the refill valve using a ballpoint pen or small screwdriver. Continue pressing until hissing stops. Press again several times until hissing stops completely. Then refill the lighter. Shake the gas canister first. Use at least two five second bursts and shake the gas canister each time. Repeat until the lighter is full. Escaping gas indicates that the lighter is full.
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My Torch Watch has stopped working. What's wrong?

Many customers do not realise that the LED and the watch itself run off seperate batteries and that they need to be taken to a qualified horologist for replacement.
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What type of carrying cases are available for my tool?

A durable hard wearing canvas case is available for the following products:
TU25 - 8 LED TrueLite Flashlight
TU26 - 6 LED TrueLite Flashlight
TU27 - 4 LED TrueLite Flashlight
TU28 - 3 LED TrueLite Flashlight
TU80 Compact TrueLite - 3 LED Flashlight pouch
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Waveline

Do Waveline have visual information on their 2010 range of boats?

Yes, simply copy and paste this link for a short film of all our new features for 2010:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAifyf1tjWE
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Frequently Asked Questions

Attwood

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HandiRack

Isotherm

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Ritchie

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Sterling

SuperPump

Treadmaster

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Waveline

Attwood

Do Attwood pumps have built in check valves?

Will Attwood aerator pump draw water up the inlet in a vertical position (like a straw)?

Are Attwood bilge and aerator pumps ignition protected?

My pump won’t pump water very high and not much comes out, what could be wrong?

Can I use an AC/DC converter to run Attwood DC pumps?

Barigo

How do I readjust my hygrometer ?

How do I best take care of my brass ship´s barometer or clock?

How may I adjust my barometer to my local altitude ?

Cobra

How do I pair a mobile phone to the MR HH475?

My radio has short range

Where can I find a Manual/Instructions for my Cobra Product?

Glomex

Please can you advise what the power supply is for on the RA201 - Does it relate to the AM/FM function only?

Where can I find a Manual/Instructions for my Glomex Product?

V9125, the customer has to turn the amplifier to ¾ before the RED light comes on then he can only get a picture when it’s on full – is this normal or is this a fault?

Which Coaxial Cable do I use for my antenna, and why choose Glomex?

Is there an antenna that allows me to call while cruising?

Do Glomex have an antenna that allows two radio's to connect to one antenna?

Which is the best VHF antenna for a Powerboat?

What warranty do I get with a Glomex Product?

I require a Satellite TV antenna, but have restricted space, which is the best antenna for me?

I mostly sail around the mediterranean, so I need a satellite antenna that will perform in this area, which satellite is best?

I have been advised by a friend to purchase an omnidirectional TV Antenna, is this something you would recommend?

HandiHoldall

What weight can I transport on a HandiHoldall?

Will the handling of my car be altered with the HandiHoldall attached?

Is the HandiHoldall waterproof?

Is the HandiHoldall lockable?

Will the HandiHoldall fit my roof bars?

Does the HandiHoldall have a solid base?

HandiRack

What weight can I transport on a HandiRack?

Will the HandiRack work on a 2-door car?

Will the handling of my car be altered with the HandiRack attached?

At what speed is it safe to drive at with the HandiRack attached to the car?

Do ambient temperatures affect the pressure inside the HandiRack tubes?

Isotherm

How does the Isotherm ASU compare to the Classic Refrigerator?

Cooling - how does it work?

How to build your own cold box

Isotherm SP FAQ

Isotherm tips

Where can I find a Manual/Instructions for my Isotherm Product?

Can a water heater be installed vertically?

Kenyon

What is the most durable style of ceramic glass offered by Kenyon Custom?

Where can I find a Manual/Instructions for my Kenyon Product?

Which is the most cost effective model?

Do I just plug it in?

If it’s bad weather outside, can I bring my grill indoors to use?

Are Kenyon Custom cook tops ADA-compliant?

Do Kenyon Custom cook tops utilize Induction technology for cooking?

Can I change the voltage on the cook top?

My burner does not heat up?

How can I obtain a manual for my cook top/grill?

Ritchie